Masks attract today’s consumer with the promise of immediate results in treating a variety of skin flaws. New formats and formulations that address individual needs appeal to consumer looking to try something different without spending a fortune. In the US, facial masks have significantly outperformed much larger segments such as facial moisturizers according to Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst with The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY.

Facial masks are among the oldest face treatments. Cleopatra had her own special formulas. This column will briefly review the role of facial masks in improving skin conditions. Masks remove dry, dead skin cells from the surface making the skin smoother and the pores less dilated. Masks can be either a “wash off” (clay based) or “peel off” (synthetic polymer based). Masks can moisturize intensely, making wrinkles look less pronounced. Masks containing a cooling ingredient like menthol increase blood flow to the skin, making skin look rosy. Facial masks are based on three major categories; namely, vinyl- or rubber-based, earth-based and wax-based. Masks provide three main benefits, acne-fighting, anti-aging and moisturizing.

Vinyl- or rubber-based masks are very popular because they are easy to apply and remove in one single sheet. They are based on substances such as polyvinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate or latex. When the vehicle evaporates, a thin and pliable vinyl or rubber film remains and is left on the face for about 30 minutes. Due to occlusion, facial hydration is improved. The formulas usually contain exfoliating agents such as AHAs and BHAs.

The Clay’s the Thing
Earth masks are formulated with absorbent clays such as bentonite or kaolin that produce an astringent effect on skin; this effect is boosted by adding ingredients such as zinc oxide, salicylic acid or AHA. Clays are rich in mineral salts. They are absorbent and re-mineralizing. They are also used in foaming products such as shampoos and shower gels. White clay is ideal for masks, creams and shampoos for normal hair. Green clay is perfect for masks, anti-dandruff shampoos and products for oily hair. Red clay is recommended in masks and shampoos for dry hair. Pink clay, a mix of red and white clay, is suitable for moisturizing masks.

Furthermore, Fuller’s earth has skin-stimulating properties and removes dead skin cells. Moroccan clay is effective in detoxifying the skin without leaving it dry or sensitive.

Alban Muller’s Amipeel-off mask is a powder made up of alginates extracted from brown algae that have moisturizing properties. It contains natural silicon in the form of diatomaceous earth, which re-mineralizes and firms the skin. Specially formulated to gel quickly on the skin’s surface, this soft, thin mask peels off in one piece to leave the epidermis soft and relaxed, according to the company.

Masks are primarily composed of clay, mud or earth minerals. Clays from the various parts of the world are selectively used for their inherent properties. Clays absorb oils from the skin and they also remove layer of the skin with it when it is removed making facial skin smoother.    According to Dr. Howard Murad, MD, clay masks designed for oily or acne prone skin should not only remove oil but also heal and soothe as well. There are more than 12 types of clays used in masks. These masks are blended with additional actives such as sulfur, seaweed, tea tree oil, eucalyptus, zinc and licorice extract. One caveat; clays can be too harsh if they require a lot of rinsing to remove them.

Finally, wax masks are formulated into thin lotion with beeswax, petrolatum and cetyl alcohol that usually is applied with a soft brush on the skin covered with a thin gauge cloth. This mask treatment is available only in professional salons or spas.

An Array of Benefits
Acne masks are based on bentonite clay, which has excellent oil absorbing properties. They usually contain benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, sulfur or camphor, too.

Dead cell layers thicken with age, but when these layers are sloughed off, skin appears smoother and brighter. That’s why some masks contain pumice and polyethylene to provide gentle skin exfoliation during rinsing. These masks are left on the face for 20 minutes and need to be used two to three times weekly. Masks work to draw out skin’s excess oil, dirt and impurities. They also help clear pores, promote healthy skin cell rejuvenation and control acne breakouts.

Pre-masks have a thicker consistency and are usually applied by brush and left on the face for 10-15 minutes. These characteristics are necessary because the clogged pore is filled with hardened sebum, wax and cholesterol, which turns black when sebum oxidizes and the pores, filled with sebum, stretch and appear larger. Sometimes use of steam accompanies this treatment which makes skin more flexible for extraction of sebaceous impaction and unclog pores.

A consumer who has relatively few clogged follicles and more dehydrated skin may find this treatment beneficial because any carelessness and a clogged pore blossoms into a pimple. Advanced deep cleansing masks address clogged pores, soothe inflammation and improve circulation. 

According to Murad, cleansing masks clarify skin and temporarily tighten pores. They also encourage a sense of wellbeing as the client relaxes during facial service.Another category, moisturizing masks, contain large number of emollients, helping temporarily plump up fine lines and wrinkles making them less noticeable. As a dermatologist Murad suggests masks infused with high levels of antioxidants such as vitamin C be used on sun damaged hyper-pigmented skin to increase clarity and hydration. Anti-aging masks are formulated to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, hydrate the skin and encourage new cell development. This category includes enzyme masks that are ideal for digesting impacted layers of dead skin cells that are subsequently removed. Enzyme sources include papaya, pineapple and pumpkin. They target dead skin cells and exfoliate skin. These masks are excellent cleansers, as they liquefy dead cells, and are popular in anti-aging treatments.

What’s Next?
Masks’ popularity is driven by a move toward more customized skin care solutions along with improved ease of use.
According to Sarah Jindal, senior marketing manager, Mintel, multi-use masks are now available in Asia. These 3-in-1 products work as a serum, cream and mask; their success means that many other variants will soon enter the marketplace.

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Navin M. Geria
Senior Technical Advisor  and Principal Doctors Skin Prescription
www.dspskincare.com

Navin Geria, ex-Pfizer Research Fellow, is senior technical advisor and principal of the dermatological research company, Doctors Skin Prescription (DSP), Boston, founded by dermatologist David J. Goldberg, MD JD and plastic surgeons William P. Adams, MD FACS and Jason Pozner, MD. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and most recently, Spa Dermaceuticals. He has earned nearly 20 US patents, has been published extensively and has been both a speaker and a moderator at cosmetic industry events.